In this week's conversation, Abigail talks to independent perfumer Liz Zorn, owner of Soivohle'. Liz talks about the meaning of Soivohle', and the art of creating a perfume.

You can purchase Liz Zorn's fragrances directly from the Soivohle' website, and a discerning selection is available at Abigail's web-tique, The Posh Peasant.

Abigail: What brought you to the art/craft/science of perfumery?

Liz Zorn: I have always loved perfume. Early in my teens I met some people who were interested in Yoga and Indian Philosophies. They also made altar oils, and incense using essential oils, resins and balsams. That is where it started for me. I loved the smells of the oils and began collecting them and making my own blends.

Abigail: What do you enjoy most about creating perfumes?

Liz: The possibilities. We use the word "Master" to describe an expert in a field. But with perfumery the possibilities are so numerous, that to really master it would take more than one human lifetime.

I like that the challenge is and will always be bigger than me. For someone (like myself) who gets bored easily. It is a perfect arrangement.

Abigail: I won’t ask you to choose amongst your own perfumes, but what would you list as your top 5 favorite perfumes? Or perhaps the perfumers / perfume houses that most influenced you?

Liz: I am not one to try out a lot of different perfumes, or pay a lot of attention to what others have done, or are doing.

I do still wear Caleche'. I have a vintage bottle of the parfum.

I have many perfumes, but do not wear them. What I wear mostly is from my natural collection. Marcco and Jhango Bay.

I also wear the trial versions of new perfumes, and custom scents. Whatever I am working on at the time is usually what I wear.

Abigail: What are your top favorite notes?

Liz: That changes: Today I would choose. Vetiver, Blue Lotus and Lemon Verbena.

Abigail: SOIVOHLE’ – what does this mean to you?

Liz: It means that I have my ducks in a row.

It is an acronym: Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy.

It is a lifestyle. A philosophy.

I see that image everyday. SOIVOHLE'. It is a constant reminder to me that, life, work, art are all pieces to a larger puzzle. It is a constant reminder to always be kind and just. Not only in work, but in life.

Abigail: What are the most difficult scents/fragrances/notes to create? Have you had one (or more) perfume that took ages to perfect but ultimately worked?

Liz: The most difficult thing is to create natural accords, of scents that are not available naturally, such as Gardenia, Lily of The Valley, Lilac, Honeysuckle, etc. It takes a lot of time to create good versions of these synthetically. To do it with the more complex and often hard to tame natural materials is a very big challenge. But one that is well worth it if a quality accord can then be achieved.

Abigail: How long does it normally take you, from the idea all the way through to a finished perfume?

Liz: That depends. I can have an idea rolling around in my head for months, even years. I always create the perfume first in my head, before ever writing anything down. Once I write it down, it is well on its way to completion. There is no set time.

But if I am doing a custom scent, I can have it completed in just a few weeks.
 

Click the picture above to visit the Soivohle' website

Abigail: Can you explain to our readers, (in lay person’s terms) how you go about creating a perfume? Approximately how many different ingredients are needed? How many “tries/tweaks” does it take? I personally imagine it to be very difficult, and am curious as to how you go about the process of making a fragrance.

Liz: Well, again there is no set agenda. I have some perfumes with as little as twenty or so ingredients, and others that are well over a hundred. But one could craft a scent with three or four notes.

I do not divide my formulas into top, middle and base notes. I list them according to the percentage of each material used. I then make up a trial batch using drops, and diluting it to an eau de' perfume strength at 15%, 18% and 22%. Three vials. I then let it sit for a few days and test them on my skin. I do not trust paper strips. So I never use them.

I then begin to fine-tune the formula. I can tell if maybe it has too much sandalwood, and make an adjustment to the percentage. Down the line with all of the notes. By not having divided my formula. I can fine tune down to the tiniest detail. Always keeping track of my percentages.

It is a good idea for a beginner to use the top, middle and base note method. It is the way to become familiar with the notes. But after awhile this becomes a hindrance.

If I am looking at my composition as three separate things, perhaps I am concentrating too much on one of them. I don’t like it brought to my attention it that way. I do not want to be influenced by that dynamic. But I’d rather to only evaluate it as a complete entity, a synergy, of the whole being greater than the parts.

Abigail: Is there a trend in perfumery that you’re excited about?

Liz: I am excited about the rise of the artisan in perfumery. The independents, like myself who own their own business, and are not punching a time card at a factory. This opens things up, and allows the art of perfumery to grow in many exciting ways. When big companies own and control everything, creativity suffers, and the bottom line becomes the most important thing.

It is like my scent, Chrysalis. It is very odd. But very popular. In the mainstream perfume arena a scent like that would never be created, or even contemplated. I am excited that I can make scents like Chrysalis, and even more excited that so many people like it.

Abigail: Is there a trend in perfumery that disappoints you?

Liz: There seems to be a trend these days to over regulate. I am not pleased with that side of perfumery, the politics and often misinformation that gets passed around. But I try to keep a positive attitude. If it comes knocking on my door I will deal with it.

Abigail: Have you read Perfume: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez? What did you think?

Liz: No I have not read it. Someone sent me a copy, and I put it on my bookshelf with all my other perfumery books. I know that a lot of people have been talking about it, but I have no interest in it at all. I just ordered a new book on the chemistry of perfume. I will read it from cover to cover and probably carry it around for several days until I have downloaded all of the pertinent information to my brain cells. That's my kind of book. Information that I can use.

Abigail: Liz, Thank you so much. Your responses have been fascinating for me. I wanted to let you know that I think your perfumes are so well done, and four in particular are absolutely stunning. I’ve been fortunate enough to try: Blood Orange & Vetiver, Underworld, Domino Viole’ and Writing Lyrical Poetry. All four are just beautiful. Writing Lyrical Poetry is one of your newest creations and I’m happy to see that it’s receiving plenty of good “buzz” and excellent reviews. Domino Viole’ is a beautiful violet and for me this is groundbreaking because I rarely (so rarely!) like the way violet is done. Liz, I wish you all the best, thanks again.

Liz: Thank You. It's been a pleasure.
 

Abigail is a perfume addict from the USA. She co-writes a blog with a fellow PerfumeCritic writer called I Smell Therefore I Am. She also has a perfume web-tique called The Posh Peasant. Abigail can be reached at [Abigail at perfumecritic dot com]

 

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